The Supply Index is a design-led record of everyday products, selected for the quality of their design decisions — what each prioritises, what it sacrifices, and what those choices say about who it was made for.

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Khaki Field Mechanical

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The Khaki Field Mechanical is a hand-wound field watch built closely on the MIL-W-46374 specification Hamilton supplied to the US military. The 38mm stainless steel case is sandblasted to a matte finish with no polished surfaces, sits 9.5mm thick, and reads as deliberately austere: a black dial, white Arabic numerals, an inner 24-hour track and luminous, faux-patina hands. Inside is Hamilton's H-50, a modified ETA 2801-2 with the beat slowed to extend the power reserve to 80 hours, a long runtime for a hand-wound movement at this price. It is water resistant to 50 metres behind a sapphire crystal, on a green NATO strap. Nothing on the watch exists without a functional reason, which is the whole argument of a field watch.

Design intent

  • It recreates a military-specification field watch with modern materials and a notably long 80-hour reserve, keeping the austere, legibility-first dial of the original.
  • The matte sandblasted case is finished to arrive already looking worn-in, so the first scratches carry no anxiety; the watch is meant to be used.

Trade-offs

  • Water resistance is 50 metres, modest for a tool watch, a consequence of the slim case and push-pull crown.
  • It must be hand-wound, with no rotor, no date and no quartz convenience, which is part of the ritual for some and a daily chore for others.
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12 Feb 2024
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